How to Plan Your Restoration Project You should make a number of decisions and evaluations to before starting to work on your car. Someone did steal my radiator and the bracket for it,so thats all its missing. We had them add turn signal and high beam indicators to the panel too. Use this project as an opportunity to go over the undercarriage with a fine-tooth comb and replace questionable items if necessary. If you have questions or issues, always ask an expert for help. More power, better braking, greater safety and improved ride quality are some advantages of a chassis swap.
You are currently viewing as a guest which gives you limited access to view discussions To gain full access to our community you must ; for a free account. The most time consuming part of that being bleeding the system of air. Classic vehicle restoration takes time. It's just something you don't tend to see that often. I bought an engine block from another truck, and bought a rebuild kit for the 223 inline 6 engine. Undertake as much of the bodywork yourself as possible.
It's shiny enough most people think it's nice, and has enough patina on it I don't worry when it gets a scratch. Work out the plan of your actual work. One thing leads to another on stuff like that. After a while of lurking, you will get to see all the problem areas, where to look, what you're getting yourself into. This will take a much longer time, but that shows how much you love your truck. I want to try this some day myself. My car gets really hot driving in the Texas heat.
I can also bouch for the fact that once you get into a restoration, you will spend more than you planned. But we wanted to somehow make the heater look like it belonged in the truck and that trick turned out to be the addition of a 1947 Ford horn button we purchased from Dennis Carpenter Reproductions. This was mostly a project for learning for Dusty but he used the truck for some 3-4 years to plow a large estate he was caretaking and the lot for my shop. Take the time to research the parts that you are going to need for your truck. Keep money aside for a professional paint job to finish the vehicle, although you can do the priming of the body yourself.
Some that don't require much more the a good cleaning and maybe a coat of paint and others that will need a ground up total restoration and then there are cars that we find that are good for not much else except parts. I hope to do one myself one day and thus my question. Since 1993, when I grabbed it from a rack at my favorite bookstore like a strung-out junkie fiercely clutching his next hit, it has been my constant companion through one and a half frame-off restorations of battered, old Stovebolts. Stripping the body to early before it is ready for paint will lead to a lot of rusting body panels and I can't paint the car in the winter. Remember, only a mechanic looking under you car will ever see the underside of your car. It can be costly and we urge you to give this very careful consideration.
Hopefully the product stacks up like they say it will. I have been attempting to achieve the same level of restoration or at least very close to that as one would by removing the body. And even though it was lavishly illustrated throughout with clear, crisp offset black and white imagery that fired my imagination and motivation through many a long winter's evening, it was still black and white. My tow vehicle is a 1965 F100. You will find yourself removing as many parts as possible in order to get things thoroughly cleaned.
I see two factors causing this. That might be poor form. I always thought if it was applied new, it was not necessary to remove. Before beginning exterior painting, remove the exterior trim, including emblems, chrome accents, and lights. Then find websites and forums that deal with that truck specifically. Perhaps it is in good running order but the bodywork has been better days. If your lucky you will break even.
Also there were what seemed like 200 feet of hydraulic brake-lines as well as a rats nets of fuel lines thanks to the cross-over valve and dual saddle tanks. I almost threw in the towel a few times until a buddy came over and looked at it. I read it as much for enjoyment as for technical assistance with my own restorations. In fact, one of the critical deficiencies of the first edition corrected in the new edition is an expanded treatment of pre-War Stovebolts -- those built prior to the 1942 model year. I just recently completed the full restoration of my 1960 f-100 truck.
I'm suprised the spring mounts haven't caved into the frame yet. Scott Well, I used Eastwoods Corroless primer and Chassis black on mine 3 years ago. I will definitely look into those jackstands. Frame rails and firewall is detailed one section at a time then pieces start being restored one at a time and reinstalled until all is back together. .